Classic gems: Stirred Eggs

I discovered the recipe below this weekend when flipping through an old paperback cookbook 'How to Cook and Eat in Chinese' by Buwei Yang Chao. The first edition was released in 1945 and the last edition in 1963 (although my copy was printed in 1972). As it turns out, this is really something of a classic. It is a Chinese woman's (who learned to cook while at medical school in Japan no less) attempt to make Chinese cuisine understandable to an American audience and offers explanatory sections about materials, utensils and preparation as well as recipes and menus. To underscore the classic quality, the preface to this book was written by Pearl S. Buck - within which she 'nominates' the author for a Nobel Peace Prize for the contribution this book has made to peace, friendship and understanding. Indeed, a quick Google search will tell you that Dr. Chao was first to use the description 'stir-frying' to describe the cooking method known in Chinese as ch'ao.

It is a charming cookbook for its simplicity and its recipes as well as its 'of another time' quality (the use of several tablespoons of lard in almost every recipe might be an example of this). The recipe below is more of a description and is credited to the author's husband, identified only as R.Y.C., noting that this is the only thing he can cook well. I've shortened it slightly as it is rather long - but it is hard to edit as the whole thing is so utterly charming:

'Obtain:
6 average-sized fresh eggs (for this is the maximum number of eggs I have cooked at one time)
3g of cooking salt (or, as an alternative, 4 g of table salt)' [blogger's note - the only reference I can find that indicates that there might be a difference between these two types of salt says that cooking salt is a curing salt used for curing meats - unless I've gotten this wrong I wouldn't actually recommend that you season your eggs with it!)]
'50cc fresh lard, which will approximately equal the conent of 4 level tablespoonfuls
1 plant of Chinese ts'ung (substitute with scallion if ts'ung is unobtainable) about 30cm long by 7 mm in average diameter. (This ingredient is optional)' [bloggers note - scallions are what Americans call green onions or spring onions]

'Either shell or unshell the eggs by knocking one against another in any order. Be sure to have a bowl to catch the contents. With a pair of chopsticks, strike the same with a quick vigorous motion known as 'beating the eggs'. This motion should, however, be made repeatedly and not just once. Automatic machines, aptly named as 'egg-beaters' have been invented for this purpose'....

The author inserts a footnote about breaking the eggs at the bottom of the page: 'Since, when two eggs collide, only one of them will break, it will be necessary to use a seventh egg with which to break the sixth. If, as it may very well happen, the seventh egg breaks first instead of the sixth, an expedient will be simply to use the seventh one and put away the sixth. An alternate procedure is to delay your numbering system and define that egg as the sixth egg which breaks after the fifth egg.' ....

'The next phase of the operation is the most critical for the successful stir-frying of eggs. When the bottom part of the mixture becomes a puffed-up soft mass on contact with the heat, the uppoer part will remain quite liquid. Preferably using a thin flat piece of metal attached to a handle, the operator should push the mixture to one side so as to allow the uncooked portion to flow onto the hot fat on the now exposed portion of the bottom. (Sometimes this may be facilitated by slightly tipping the pan.) Quickly repeat this until 90 percent of the liquid has come in contact wiht the hot fat and becomes puffed. Then, still using the flat piece of metal, make the entire content of the pan revolve through 180 degrees about a horizontal axis. This delicate operation is know as 'turing it over', which in the hands of a beginner may easily become a flop. It can be done neatly and without waste only after repeated practice with different sets of eggs.

If the turning over has been successfully carried out, wait for 5 seconds, which is about the time it takes to count from 1 to 12., then transfer the contents to the bowl or platter, when the dish is said to be done.

To test whether the cooking has been done properly, observe the person served. If he utters a voiced bilabial nasal consonant with a slow falling intonation, it is good. If he utters the syllable yum in a reduplicated form, it is very good.' [blogger's note: R.Y C. was acutally a prominent linguist at the time so his identification of a voiced bilabial consonant is less odd than it may seem at first glance.]

I was so delighted by this that I thought it was worth sharing....any errors or misrepresentations are strictly my own.

Curry Wishes and Pakora Dreams.....

One of the best things about living in the City Centre of Glasgow is that we are surrounded by drinking, dining and shopping choices. We have been a bit extra lazy (or busy?) lately though and have been indulging more than usual in takeaway meals - and happily we are spoiled for choice. Our local favourite has to be the Balti Club on Woodlands Road, in the shadow of the Sainsbury's petrol station. At first glance, it's just your average neighborhood takeaway shop - but it is without a doubt a great choice for good, fast, fresh food. The staff are so nice and helpful and have been able to answer all my allergy questions. I've also never had anything from there that hasn't been excellent. OK - it's still takeaway food so to be consumed in moderation ideally - but what a great treat for those nights when you just don't have time/energy/inclination/etc. to cook.

We vacillate between the set meal deal for 2 for around £14 - and more food than we can manage in one meal - or a pizza (for him) and a kebab (for her). Don't judge me for the kebab - I get a chicken tikka kebab (chunks of marinated, chargrilled ckicken) served with sauce and salad and no bread (sticking with the gluten free theme). No mystery meat slices for me - just fresh, tasty chicken served with a most excellent chili sauce. The meal deal is a real winner too although hardly revolutionary in a curry-soaked city such as our own - a serving of pakora to split, plus poppadums and onions, plus rice and naan, plus two main course curries. Our favourites are the bhoona and the achari - I particularly love the achari as it has just the right amount of tasty pickley bits and just the right amount of chili goodness.

I would be missing something important as well if I didn't wax lyrical just a bit about the pakora. The batter is crispy and not too thick or bready and the assortment of pakora to choose from is fantastic. You get your 'regular' chicken, mushroom, vegetable type pakora - although the latter is notably more fluffy (this is a good thing) than crispy - as well as an array of unusual choices such as spinach and jalapeno, spinach and brie, caluiflower and cheese, etc. You can also order (with 24 hours notice) a party pack of 50 or 100 pieces (for £10 or £18 respectively) which seems like a great idea for entertaining!

More favourite cookbooks...

Since we are on the topic, I thought I'd mention what is probably my favourite Chinese cookbook. I say probably as these things can be a bit fluid - I've got more than a few cookbooks lying around and so tend to shift loyalties a bit as cookbooks move into and out of favour. A sign that it's a real gem though is that I always come back to it.

That's what happened this weekend when faced with a pork loin that I had defrosted but had no solid plans for. I re-discovered 'The Breath of a Wok', a book I have turned to time and again for simple but interesting Chinese dishes. The book focuses on 'wok hay', which is a cantonese expression and, if I understand it correctly, is the secret something that a well-seasoned, well-used and well-loved wok can impart to a dish. There are lots of instructions and anecdotes along the way - indeed the first 50-odd pages of the book detail the selection, seasoning and care of a 'proper' wok in great detail before turning to a large section on stir-frying and a section on other cooking techniques at which a wok can excel such as steaming, smoking, braising, etc.

Each chapter starts with an introduction of several pages and each recipe has an introductory paragraph. These are always my favourite cookbooks as I love these stories about food and family - especially when they come from a culture that is not my own. I love the photos as well - they reflect cooking techniques, completed dishes, family members and famous guests such as author Amy Tan.

So what did I make on Sunday? Stir fried pork with scallions (green onions on this side of the Atlantic) - super simple, no unusual ingredients (assuming you have the basics of Chinese cooking in your pantry such as soy sauce, sesame oil and either rice wine or an adequate substitute - I use dry fino sherry) and perfect. The only change I made is to toss in a bit of extra chicken stock and corn flour to increase the amount of sauce - but, as I've been told by my other half, Sunday is a day for gravy!

P.S. I've gone the 'proper' wok route before and there are many rewards to be had for the love and care invested in a good wok - however, I tend to use either a Le Cresuet cast iron wok or a non-stick'wok-style' pan and am perfectly happy with the results - at least until I can replace the ceramic hob in the kitchen we inherited in a our current flat!

Vegetarian Cookbooks

One of my favourite things to buy is cookbooks. I don't necessarily use each one often, and I rarely follow recipes to the letter, but I love having the books to refer to, even when it's one I was slightly disappointed by after I'd bought it.

I use meat cookbooks as well as vegetarian ones, as I can often just substitute the meat ingredient with Quorn or tofu. This works particularly well with certain ethnic foods, where the recipe isn't so reliant on the natural flavours of meat. Some are even more useful to me than actual vegetarian cookbooks. For example, I have Simon Hopkinson's The Vegetarian Option, and though it's lovely and I really like the way it's organised (grouped by ingredient rather than course), it's often far too fancy and involved for my humble ambitions.

By far the best vegetarian cookbooks in my collection are Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything Vegetarian (a gift from my sister who accidentally bought 2 copies). They are both visually sparse (Madison's contains some photos but Bittman's is pretty much just text), they are packed full of simple, straight forward cooking and advice, and are equally appropriate for those new to vegetarian cooking as old hands. MBK has given me a copy of Madison's Greens Cookbook, which I haven't had a chance to really sink my teeth into (so to speak).

I tried getting Heidi Swanson's cookbook, Super Natural Cooking, but it was out of stock at Amazon for so long I cancelled my order. Now she's working on a new one, so my interest is piqued again, but her blog is so good, I tend to rely on that quite a bit. Through her blog, I came across Bryant Terry's Vegan Soul Kitchen, which I love for many reasons, not least because of the fact that it has multiple recipes for Hoppin' John, a dish I grew up with (due to my Texan father's influence probably), and find very comforting.

And last, but not least, I love Denis Cotter's Wild Garlic, Gooseberries and Me. I can only dream of having access to some of the amazing produce he talks about, but now that we have a Waitrose on Byres Road, at least I can have Cavolo Nero, which is one of the key ingredients in the rich butternut squash mole recipe in the book. This mole is so good - I made it for Thanksgiving last year and I think everyone who came is going to probably buy the book on the strength of that single recipe. We had it with cornbread stuffing on the side, and the combination was perfect.

'Pork' fried rice

A rice cooker is one of those appliances that I'd considered getting, but didn't think I'd use all that much. My sister gave me one as an anniversary present back in June, and I pretty much never looked back. I can't actually remember the last time I cooked rice - or any grain for that matter - on the stove.

And the beauty is, once you put the rice on, you can then go off and do other things, and you don't have to think about it again until you're ready to use it, because the cooker knows when the rice is done, and will automatically switcher over to a warming function. Last night I put rice on, added some garlic, dried coriander leaf, chile and a bit of tomato paste straight into the rice cooker and the result was lovely, moist, spicy, aromatic brown rice. By the time it was ready, I had decided to make fried rice, and my vegetables were all chopped and my eggs were beaten and ready to scramble.

Sainsbury's had delivered Quorn bacon style chunks instead of bacon style rashers at the weekend, and I had no idea what I was going to use it for, but a last minute I realised it would make a suitable substitute for the meat you find in pork fried rice. As the rice was so flavourful, all I had to do was throw in the veg and add soy sauce, sesame oil, and a dash of rice vinegar. It was one of those lovely, improvised meals that often end up better than the ones I meticulously plan.

Bibi’s Cantina

I’ve lived in Glasgow for over seven years and I can only remember a handful of times when I’ve eaten a decent Mexican meal (not including own cooking – which I quite like!). I’d walked by Bibi’s Cantina a year ago and had never motivated myself to try it. But, having decided to go for lunch last Saturday, I was not disappointed.

The Cantina is located on the outskirts of the trendy part of the West end, a few minutes walk from Partick Station going away from town. The outside of the building isn’t particularly memorable, but it is bright and airy for the size of the room. The walls are plastered with the usual kitchy Mexicana pictures and illustrations, but there’s enough white paint and wall space to pull it off.

Eager to try as much as I could on the menu, my partner in crime and I, shared our food choices. Our starters were fried jalapeno peppers stuffed with soft cheese and simple nachos, nacho chips smothered in cheese, sour cream, salsa, guacamole and jalapeno peppers. The one piece of criticism I would give to the starters was for the nachos. While it was very tasty, with what you could tell was a very flavourful homemade salsa, the cheese wasn’t very melted and was piled in the centre of the dish rather than all over the chips. But, that wouldn’t stop me from ordering it again.

My partner’s main course was chicken burrito, while I ate the chicken fajitas. The burrito was tasty and filling, with a good mix of flavours. There was ample salsa and sour cream on it, but the side salad didn’t quite seem to match food flavours. I think a side of rice and refried beans would have really complimented the food and tied it all together, as long as it isn’t the stodgy lump that’s usually served... so perhaps the side salad was a nice change. The size of the burrito was good for a lunch, but probably not enough for a main meal at night (though we were there at lunch so hopefully a dinner portion would be larger).

My chicken fajitas were excellent. The chicken was marinated in tequila and lime juice and came served on a sizzling platter with a mix of grilled peppers, onions and chilli peppers. At first I wasn’t sure that three small tortillas would be a large enough portion size (I have big eyes when it comes to food) but actually, it was just right. There was a big serving of the usual toppings, salsa, guacamole, sour cream and cheese, and was more than enough for my needs. The flavour of the chicken and vegetables was scrummy and well worth a try.

I’ll definitely go back to Bibi’s Cantina and recommend it to others – whether veggie or meat friendly. There seems to be a good mix of veggie and meaty dishes and the service is fast and friendly, and the prices very reasonable (£8.95 for a two course lunch). Since I was only there for a lunch I can’t offer any opinion on a dinner meal ... but the margarita mixing machine was spinning when I was there and I’m keen to try some. Girls night out anyone?

Bibi’s Cantina
599 Dumbarton Road, G11 6HY
Tel: 0141 579 0179
info@bibiscantina.comwww.bibiscantiina.com